World Cup Qualifier Game: COSTA RICA v. MEXICO

Tonight I went to my first national level soccer game. It was a pretty epic experience. Not just because it was to qualify for the World Cup, but because there is a distinct rival between Costa Ricans and Mexicans. Basically, Ticos think Mexicans are really presumidos, or full of themselves, and Mexicans think the same of Ticos. As I realized there was this rival, I thought that going to the game would be an excellent initiation into Costa Rican culture. Only one small problem: the tickets were sold out weeks ago a couple hours after they went on sale. I don't have many connections here yet, but I made it my personal mission to get into to that game.

Two weeks ago I began asking around and hunting for a way to get tickets. A pirata (pirated taxi driver, not an official one) that often gives me rides told me that his uncle was a bookie and that he would check into getting tickets. He texted me the next day and said that he could get them, but it would be extremely pricey. Not only that, it was all over the news that there were 3,000 fake tickets out and that they were almost indistinguishable from the legitimate one. So I did what any rational person would do....I bought the tickets, no questions asked.

The atmosphere at the game was phenomenal. Nina and I got to the stadium almost four hours before the game and it was already pretty much full of excited fans cheering, singing, and dancing. I was almost worn out even before the game started. I noticed a marked difference between the Costa Rica game and the games I went to in South America. In Chile and Argentina it was extraordinarily intense, passionate, edgy, and possibly even a little dangerous. Here it was more like a party and celebration -- so fun! And dare I even say a little friendlier to its rivals. For example, at the end of the game (which Costa Rica lost 0-3) I witnessed something very touching that I think is a somewhat accurate portrayal. In many countries angry fans would belligerently yell and even throw things at the winning team's fans. As we exited the stadium we walked past a section of celebrating Mexican fans. The Tico next to me shouted to one of the Mexicans, "Oye, te la cambio." ("Hey, I'll trade you flags.") Then he threw the Costa Rican flag up and the other man threw the Mexico flag down. They shook hands and walked off wearing the other country's flag around their shoulders. It seriously made me feel warm inside and I felt very fortunate to witness that really cool exchange.

But let's be clear, though in general I thought the Ticos were a little more tranquil and friendly, it's not all warm fuzzies. I definitely learned at least three cheers about.... shall we say the promiscuity of the opponent's mothers.